December 2006 Archives

Result of the 'bucking' was good. The 'longer rivet' near the bracket was later replaced.

The 'chalkey' marks along the plastic covering is very light corrosion,it can be removed easily with some scotchbright etc.

Use of the bucking bar provided much better results than using the pneumatic squeezer as there are several brackets that the 'set's' just don't sit perfectly upon.

Notice that the VS forward ribs are riveted and also the rudder skin has not yet been closed nor leading edge bent to final shape.

kingThe earlier kit skins were made of .016 skin that required some form of 'dampening' of vibration and also prevent minor cracking of the trailing

edges. I did not use proseal as it seems such a waste, however, I followed Van's advice and used a flexible automotive product.

I used solid -3 rivets, although the most extreme corners I hashed up and had to drill out to -4's. The result was good but ..... is it worth all the hassle?

Final closure begins of the rudder horn
Plans call for pop rivets though with careful planning, solid rivets can be used.